A 90 MINUTE domestic flight will take you to Madeira.
To clear the jetlag (ha), you can scale the airy 800 mt. Monte by cable car (www.madeiracablecar.com) before hurtling down the rushy ravine by a toboggan pushed by mighty Madeiran men (carreiros). The sleigh strikes sparks off the road and leaves a scent like the devil’s sulphuric tail on this “journey between heaven and earth”.
It’s just one thrill possible on this 57km island discovered by Henry the Navigator’s boats, still Portuguese and absolutely out on its own in so many ways. Madeirans outnumber tourists greatly as the busy, wealthy capital Funchal enjoys its own bustle of daily fish and flower markets, industries such as wine and Madeira (keep your barrels at the top of the house to absorb rising heat), fishing, and tourist pursuits such as adventure/ maritime sports.
Funchal is lapped by the ocean and lined with the violet jacaranda tree; streets have a bunting of florals over terrace life. You can stroll on to the surprisingly smart yet laid back Old Town to eye up street doors made over by art: funky, original, gorgeous. Then take a seat outdoors at the OReginal Restaurante on Rua Dom Carlos for tipicos regionais dishes of scabbard fish (espetada), limpets (gaidado), pork medallions and garlic soda bread with hot crusty loaves.
Push out from town to find championship golf course Santa de Serra designed by Robert Trent Jones, 27 holes; go whale or dolphin watching in the subtropical waters; tour pretty villages such as Canico that overhang the Atlantic. Browse or stay at manor house hotels (quintas), their gardens and wellness centres, known for fine views and fine living.
One essential is the walking trails provided by the 200 or so levadas that irrigate all the island as ravine rivers course downwards. Madeira is a riot of colour and scents, steeped in sun.
Exploring quintas: Madeira gained a reputation for spa therapies on foot of a balmy climate that is typically early 20C in Winter, not more than 28C in Summer – Kings and queens came here to shake off TB. One of the most spectacular quintas is the Splendida (quintasplendida.com), known for a cultivated garden of 1000+ botanicals theatre feature in its menus – three bars, three restaurants – and spa. Ideal for weddings, there are apartments for self catering also, and a clifftop terrace that you will never wish to leave.
Up in the hills, Quinta do Estreito is another five star vintage house. Its hospitality wing has a rustic structure, an open kitchen epic barbecue. And the crowds.. there must have been 200 there on a midweek night, perusing a dinner of sweet potato with molasses, fried maize cubes, marinated beef and barbecued chicken. Cheerful staff in costume got the congo to wrap around the tables.
Sleep matters too, eventually. Back in Funchal, the ocean-side Melia Maderia Mare Resort and Spa is refined, contemporary, with big balconies, indoor and outdoor pools, a fine salon/ spa and bathrooms to die for.
At the neighouring Vidamar resort (www.vidamarresorts.com), enjoy one of Europe’s largest Thalasso therapy centres with its serious battery of treatments created in plush environs. There are five pools, all rooms have sea views and of the five restaurants, the Italian Mamma Mia wins for elegant fare such as grilled tuna with caper crust, chestnut risotto, sautéed duck liver and a handsome array of waiters.
Again, it’s impossible not to mention their sweet or salty Madeira wines and at 19 proof, enough is enough. Glide on to gorgeous wines and enjoy the elegant service here, typical of the quality of venue and welcome extended to all visitors to this island abundant in flora, fauna and fun times.
