THE hilly mass that is Lisbon would be a ferocious challenge if not for the sheer fun of the mechanics in place.
The transport support system is levered to elevate.You will be hoisted high by tram, train, lift or funicular to scan the city and River Tajus and noble squares with equestrian statues. Hop on an antique tram (www.yellowbustours.com) to travail Lisbon’s seven hills in comfort, a circuitous route enlivened by an audio guide. The views will stun, much less the stories that rhyme with individual monuments and barrio (neighbourhoods).
It’s a cracking way to scan this fabulous city, the upward mobility bested only by a steep funicular up to Bairro Alto’s nightlife. Head here for jazz, food and fado, Lisbon’s soul keening in music and performed by a singers such as Segredos Que se Cantam at club/ restaurant Adego Machado (www.adegamachado.pt),
All of the city slopes down to level squares dignified by equestrian statues, and the enormous estuary created by the Rio Teje. Across from Lisbon, the beaches of Caiscais and Estoril furl down the coastline like beckoning flags.
Old-world elegance informs the Hotel Lisboa Plaza (www.heritage.pt). Its rooftop bar serves delicious pesticos (picks) such as salt cod cakes, meat croquetes, octopus salad and cheeses served with marmalade (quince). Dining out? Sample wines, port and Madeira by the glass, grapes from Alentejo and Duoro regions, at near by Hotel Heritage Lisboa (www.heritage.pt) with salted almonds.
This 18th century merchant’s teahouse retains original features and is close to restaurant hot-spot Solar dos Presuntos (www.solardospresuntos.com). Named after Iberian ham, you’ll enjoy the theatre of its heaving three storeys, diners there for a glimpse of footballers such as Eusebio, presidents of nations, the stars of stage and cinema. Serial plates of fish risotto, veal pie, lobster and presunto (charcuterie) are relished while the people-watching goes on.
Walking around the city is reward in itself, its shabby-chic antiquity preserved in striking tile work. Exceptional and everyday buildings clutch at bizarre angles. There are fine shops, little shops, castles and palaces and the interactive Story of Lisbon museum (www.lisboastorycentre.pr) on the four-hectare Praca do Comercio has enlightenment for all ages on past ages.
Across this Praca’s expanse of yellow arcades, est. 1755 after the earthquake, stop off under a canopy at Aura. This cool, arty venue has contemporary cuisine (auraloungecafe.com) over which you can doff your hat to King D José 1′s statue, tall in the saddle, before hopping on a tram or bus to see galerias de arte and designer shops. Footwear in particular is leather, beautiful and good value.
Travel lightly: it makes sense to get a Lisboa card (www.askmelisboa.com) for 25 per cent off selected transport, shops, restaurants and accommodation.
